Note to myself: If you cant see the waves anymore, just get out of…

MAY 02 2024 · 12:00

Note to myself: If you cant see the waves anymore, just get out of the water:D dont try duckdiving big waves in the dark I never thought Id be jealous of people able to walk up and down stairs easily and fast, steps to this day (today its day 91) are still my final enemy:D And tbh surfing is also still kinda painful for my twiggy leg and knee but lifes just too short to stay landlocked 🙈 But, I have the bestest and sweetest and most caring friends and people around and felt incredibly loved and supported over the past months <3 Thank you for holding my hand in the ER and carrying me through the rain and to the beach, for getting m